11 Tips for Harvesting and Preserving Fresh Herbs

Whether you grow them for their many medicinal purposes, for use in the kitchen, or simply for their beauty and fragrance – herb gardening can be a lot of fun!  Knowing when to plant and how to care for your herbs is half of being a successful gardener.  Often more important is knowing the proper techniques for harvesting your precious herbs.  Read on for some priceless tips and tricks that will help you get the most out of your garden.

1. The One Third Rule

For most herbs, you never want to harvest more than one third of the entire aerial growth at one time. This ensures that the plant will have plenty of leaves to regrow itself afterward.  However, there are some exceptions to the rule.  Chives, for example, grow back faster if  all of the leaves are cut off within an inch to a half inch from the ground.  Many species in the mint family (including catnip and lemon balm) regrow more efficiently if all of the stems are harvested at once – cut above the first or second set of leaves from the base of the crown.

2. When to Begin Harvesting

The earliest time that its safe to harvest your herbs varies from plant to plant.  Here are some of the most commonly grown herbs and their corresponding ages or times of year to begin harvesting:

Basil – Once the plant reaches 6 – 8” in height.

Chives – As soon as the leaves are thick enough to use.

Cilantro – Once stems are 6 – 12” long.

Lavender – Harvest at any time once stems have flowered.

Lemon Balm – Leaves may be harvested at any time during the growing season.

Oregano – Sprigs may be harvested once the plant reaches 3 – 4” tall.  Best in mid-summer.

Parsley – Any time after mature leaves appear.

Peppermint – Harvest at any time during the growing season.  Best just before blooms appear.

Rosemary – May be harvested at any time.

Sage – Harvest only lightly during the first year of growth.  Second growing season and thereafter, harvest any time year-round.

Tarragon – Any time after new growth begins in spring.

Thyme – Harvest at any time.  Best just before blooms appear.

3. How to Harvest

Different types of plants have different preferred methods of harvesting.  Leafy annuals like basil should be gathered by pinching off bunches of leaves from the tips of the stems.  Be sure to clip stems close to a leaf-pair so as not to leave a stub.  This will help the plant to regrow and encourage bushier plants with more tender leaves for the next harvest.  Herbs with long stems like cilantro, parsley, lavender, and rosemary should be cut near the base of the plant – about an inch from the ground.  Leafy perennial herbs such as oregano, thyme, sage, and tarragon can be harvested by the stem or sprig.

4. Flower, Seed, or Leaf?

Some herbs may be harvested for multiple purposes.  Knowing when and how to harvest these plants for your specific purpose may require a bit of finesse.  Cilantro, for example, has a short life-span that progresses rapidly from seedling to flower and seed. If your goal is to harvest cilantro for its leaves, you’ll have to keep an eye on these plants.  Once they bolt, leaves become scarce and the herb will have to be replanted.  However, if your desire is the coriander, you’ll want to wait until the flowers form seed pods then trim the entire stems and place them upside in a paper bag to dry.

Herbs such as lavender and echinacea which are grown primarily for their flowers should be harvested just before the blooms are fully opened for a more potent and longer lasting aroma.

Other herbs like basil and fern-leaf dill are commonly encouraged to produce more leaves by removing flower stalks once they appear.  Herbs such as oregano, thyme, and mint are most flavorful just before they begin to bloom, making this the best time to harvest their leaves.

Many herbs can also be allowed to go to seed in order to propagate themselves.  Cilantro / coriander is very easily replanted this way throughout the growing season due to its large seed pods.  Parsley is another herb that is easily harvested for its seeds as they grow in bunches on the ends of the plant’s flower stalks.  Some herbs like basil and oregano have tiny seeds which are best harvested by clipping off matured flower stalks and allowing them to dry in a cool, dark, protected environment.

5. Harvesting Clippings

On the topic of propagation, there are many herbs which may be harvested and regrown from clippings.  Some good examples are basil, rosemary, and mint.  Lovely leafy basil clippings are made by cutting off a few long stems, removing all but two to three leaf-pairs as well as any flower stalks, then placing the stems in water to root.  Rosemary and mint clippings may be taken from fresh new growth, trimmed of extra leaves (to form a long-stemmed sprig), then planted directly into damp soil.

6. Knowing When to Stop

Some perennial herbs can be harvested year-round like cold-hardy thyme and rosemary.  Others should be allowed a rest period before the first frost so the plants aren’t stressed before they go into dormancy.  For leafy perennials like sage and mint, you’ll want to do your last big harvest about two months before the first expected frost then harvest only lightly from that point on unless your herbs are in pots and you plan to bring them inside for the winter.

7. Drying Herbs

This is probably the most popular and widely-used method for preservation of harvested herbs. Drying works well for woody-stemmed herbs like rosemary, oregano, and lavender.  Simply cut off long stems, bundle, and hang them up to dry.  When harvesting herbs for drying, make certain that they are free of dew to avoid mold growth.

Alternately, you can use a food dehydrator to quickly preserve your fresh herbs without the risk of contamination.  These handy machines have a long list of other great uses as well.

8. Oil and Butter

Add cut herbs to olive oil or make herb-flavored butters to preserve them.  This technique cuts down on wilting and discoloration, and often seals in flavors better than other methods.  Just remember that your herbs must not have drops of water on them when they are added to oil, otherwise you run the risk of bacterial contamination.  To be extra safe, you may want to dry your herbs using one of the methods listed above before adding them to oil or butter.

9. Preserve With Vinegar

Herbs can also be preserved with vinegar.  Save bottles and corks to reuse for this technique.  Simply add your fresh herbs like rosemary, tarragon, or basil to clean glass bottles and fill with a vinegar of your choice.  Remember that your herbs will have to compete with the flavor of the vinegar they are stored in.  Try mild white vinegar for more delicate herbs.  For powerful herbs like rosemary or basil, use full-bodied vinegar like apple cider vinegar.

10 Freezing Herbs

For tender leafy herbs like basil and mint, freezing them tends to preserve their flavors better than drying.  There are three excellent methods for doing this:

Paint the leaves with oil and store them flat in a resealable freezer bag.

Chop up your herbs in a food processor or blender with a little bit of oil to form a paste. Wrap in wax paper and freeze. Then, when you’re ready to use your preserved herbs, simply cut off however much you need and replace the rest back in the freezer.

A clever way to freeze herbs without oil is to chop them up and drop the pieces to ice cube trays filled with water. When you’re ready to use them, simply pop out a cube or two and thaw your herbs as needed.

11. Salt and Sugar

Use salt to preserve herbs like rosemary, tarragon, marjoram, and oregano.  Alternate layers of salt and whole leaves in a jar (or other resealable container) pressing firmly between layers until the jar is full.  Alternately, add about 6 tablespoons of herbs to one cup of coarse ground salt in a blender and mix until well incorporated.  Store salted herbs in air-tight containers until ready to use.

For sweet herbs like mint, use sugar instead of salt for a flavorful treat!

source by :http://www.naturallivingideas.com/11-tips-harvesting-preserving-fresh-herbs/

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15 Common Gardening Mistakes Everyone Makes

We gardeners seem to prefer learning the hard way. In spite of all the gardening books we browse through, and the classes we attend, mistakes are invariably made.  Here’s a sample of the ones many have made and regretted.

Not preparing the beds

Most of us have made this mistake, some out of ignorance, and others due to sheer laziness. When the little seeds and seedling go into the damp earth in spring, it seems the tiny planting holes we make with our fingers or a small hand shovel are room enough for them. But the soil soon dries out and becomes rock hard. If the roots of the young plants cannot penetrate into the soil, you’ll end up with stunted plants.

Digging and double digging the garden beds and adding in plenty of compost and leaf mold makes the soil loose enough for good root run. And this backbreaking work has to be done before you plant things. Making raised beds is another option if you don’t want to dig deep.  

Leaving out soil amendment

We tend to forget that soil is like a living organism, always changing and evolving.  Soil conditions can fluctuate with the amount of rainfall, soil runoff and lack of drainage. Some plants deplete certain soil nutrients more than the others. Heavy rains can leach away the limestone you recently added to raise the pH of your broccoli bed.  

It pays to check the soil for pH level and mineral profile every growing season and make necessary amendments a few weeks before planting time. Then test again to make sure things are perfect for the plants that are getting ready to go in.

Organic matter has a modulating effect on soil chemistry, so the more humus your soil has, the lesser the chemical fluctuations. Add plenty of compost and cured manure to your vegetable beds. Good soil is particularly important for your veggies garden since you need healthy plants that produce high-quality food.

Overwatering

Overwatering is like killing with too much love. Most over enthusiastic gardeners are guilty of this crime. Frequent watering may be necessary until seedlings and cuttings get established. But once they have developed a good root system, water them at regular intervals.

The roots of most plants hate sitting in water. Like every other plant tissue, roots need to breathe. They literally drown if all the air pockets in the soil are filled with water all the time. Even when the top soil looks dry, the lower layers could be soaking wet.

Frequently watered plants remain tender, and wilt very easily in the sun. When the interval between subsequent watering is gradually increased, plants toughen up and learn to be survivors.  However, too much water stress can decrease the yield of some vegetables.

Shallow watering

This is another watering mistake committed by those who water their plants with a handheld garden hose. You spray the top growth, washing down the dust on the leaves and giving the entire plant a nice shower. Satisfied, you move on unmindful of the fact that the roots have got very little water. When you see the plants looking rather tired in the afternoon sun, you may give them another quick shower.

Plants drink water through their roots. Wilted crowns do recover rapidly when they are sprayed with water, but that is because it helps cut down the transpiration rate. Shallow watering results in shallow root run. Plants become dependent on frequent watering. They become prone to toppling over and wilting quickly since their roots have not grown deep into the soil to anchor them and to draw water from the reservoirs in the lower layers of soil.

Cut on the frequency of watering, but water the plants deeply every time. Drip irrigation or a leaky hose watering system ensures deep watering. They help save water too.

Planting sun lovers in shade

We all know plants have this unique ability to make food in their leaves with just sunlight, water and air. But sometimes we plant a tomato variety guaranteed to be a prolific bearer close to a tree. We may be overjoyed at the luxurious growth, only to be disappointed by the low yield. The poor plant was making a lot of leaves to maximize food production, but it just wasn’t enough.

There are some woodland plants that have evolved to survive in shady spots, but if you plant sun-loving plants there, they just will not thrive. Tomatoes and most other veggies do best in areas where they can get uninterrupted sun throughout the day. If you mainly have a shady garden, you cannot hope to grow a lot of vegetables other than some greens. Clear out an area for your vegetable patch.

Planting out of season

It is hard to believe seasons have such a hold on plants. Many of us probably have planted seeds or cuttings at the wrong time of the year and watch them put out a bit of growth in the beginning and then quit. Seasons are not much of an issue in tropical areas as long as the young plants are given plenty of water. But it is quite another story up north.

Planting out tender seedling too early in spring leaves them at the mercy of late frosts. Delay a bit, and you may miss the chance to get vigorous growth and yield before the rising temperatures play spoilsport. Cool season veggies and summer flowers have to be planted at their respective times.

Beware of end-of-season bargain offers by mail-order companies. By the time the order reaches you, it might be too late to plant them. Some seeds are viable for only a short period, so preserving them for the next season may not be a good idea. Follow the gardening calendar of your area and listen to the advice of local gardeners for best results.

Not pruning your bushes and trees

Pruning is hard work, but going lax on this seasonal task is one mistake new gardeners make. With bushes grown for ornamental purposes, the prized shape and structure are soon lost.

The yield of fruit trees and berry bushes practically depends on meticulous pruning. Left unpruned, the unnecessary branches and suckers zap them of all the energy that should have been directed towards flowering and fruit setting. Some fruits grow only on new growth, so unless you prompt the plant to put out new shoots by hard pruning every year, you will be left without much fruit in the next season.

When you plant an ornamental/fruit tree or shrub, take pains to learn the right pruning technique. It is even more important than watering and fertilizing schedules.  

Hard pruning at the wrong time

Have you ever pruned a hydrangea bush real hard in fall because it looked nearly dead? You have probably removed all the dormant flower buds that would have bloomed the following year. Some plants bear flowers on old branches while others put out new flowering branches after pruning. You should first learn about the flowering pattern of your bush and schedule the pruning accordingly.

Since pruning instigates new growth in most plants, those that bear flowers and fruits late in the growing season should be pruned once they have gone into dormancy. Early pruning will make them put out tender shoots that will suffer frost damage.

Spring flowering trees and bushes can be pruned immediately after they have finished the show so that they get a long window to develop new growth before the growing season is over. Maintain a pruning calendar for the plants in your garden to avoid mistakes.

Using weed killers on a wrong day

You sprayed the herbicide on a patch of lawn overgrown with weeds, but the next day you find the nearby flower beds decimated. There are selective herbicides that kill only the dicot weeds in the lawn and spare the grass. But the spray was carried by the wind to the dicots growing happily in the flower beds too.

Another mistake is using these chemicals when there’s any danger of rains. The runoff water will carry them off to wreak damage elsewhere. Chemical herbicides are best avoided, but if you do use them in your garden, choose sunny and windless days.

Planting invasive plants

Almost every gardener has fallen in love with a beautiful plant on his/her travels and has brought it home, not realizing they are considered noxious weeds in that area. Just because you don’t see certain plants in your locality, it doesn’t mean they are not invasive. Probably years of eradication measures and campaigning or strict rules have managed to keep them out, and you could have just undone all that.

Whether you gather seeds or plants from the wild or get planting materials from a distant friend or relative, or order them online, check beforehand if they are invasive in your area or not. Once established, it is hard work, or nearly impossible, to root them out.  

Planting single self-sterile plants

Have you purchased a berry bush or a young tree and waited for years only to be disappointed when none of the flowers turned into fruit? If you have planted a self-sterile variety, you have two options: get rid of it or plant another one and wait for years again.  

Some blueberry plants need two of the same type for successful pollination. But it takes two different types of apple trees to give you fruit. Not only that, they should have the same blooming time. Some apple trees produce sterile pollen, so you will need a third tree in the premises. It is a complex matter.

Some plums and pears are only partially self-sterile, and they manage to grow a few fruit. But they do much better in company. If you don’t want to try your luck, choose your plants with the help of knowledgeable suppliers, or stick to self-fertile varieties.

Scaring away pollinators with pesticides

Being too handy with pesticides is a big mistake overzealous gardener make. We are not talking about contaminating the earth here, although it is a great concern. If you find too few vegetables and fruits after meticulously watering and fertilizing your plants and keeping off pests and weeds with frequent spraying, you could have scared off the pollinators.  

It is hard to watch pests chomping away on your well-tended veggies, but remember that all the critters visiting your vegetable patch are not your enemies. You need insect pollinators to ensure a good crop.   

Ordering too many bulbs

When the catalogs offer such great steals, which self-respecting gardener can resist the temptation to stock up on the bulbs? When your bulb planting encroaches into your annual beds and all unimaginable places in the garden, you have overdone it, yet again. We are not mentioning the unplanted ones here.

Bulbs promise a welcome burst of color as the seasons change, but you will agree that the flower show is all too short. You need your annuals and perennials for year long enjoyment. To let you in on a secret: you can buy gardener friends by giving away some of your bulbs. They are a delightful lot, you know.

Planting trees too close to the house

You had zeroed in on the perfect tree for your landscape after extensive research, but now you are contemplating cutting it down. You had made the mistake of planting it too close to the house. The fully grown tree is literally a threat to your safety, let alone other problems like too much shade, constant dampness and fallen leaves and flowers making a mess around the house.   

It is never a good idea to plant tall trees close to your home. You may think you can keep it under control with regular pruning, but who will control the roots beneath the soil? They can spread and swell, making the foundation of the house unstable.

Planting the same vegetable in the same place year after year

We tend to designate certain areas in our garden to vegetables and ornamentals, but repeatedly growing tomatoes or greens in the same area is a mistake many of us have come to regret.

One reason is the pests and diseases that take hold of the area. Many of the fungal blights, rusts and spots are host specific. Their spores remain in the soil and affect the next batch of plants. Most caterpillars, beetles and borers and some nematodes also show a definite preference for certain plants or plant groups. Their eggs and larvae are in the soil awaiting their host plants. Plant rotation breaks their lifecycle.

Care should be taken to avoid different plants of the same family together, or one after another, in the same spot. They may have common pests. For example, cabbage worms feast on cauliflowers, broccoli, collard greens and turnips. Tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes that belong to the same family are affected by many common fungal diseases.    

Another reason why crop rotation is important is that different plants have different nutritional requirements. The soil fertility is seriously depleted when nitrogen or potash loving plants continue to be grown in the same place. The yield of subsequent crops is greatly affected and the need for fertilizers increases.

Planting leguminous vegetables or cover crops help fix nitrogen in the soil. It can be utilized by leafy vegetable that require a lot of it.

It is fun to share your gardening mistakes with fellow gardeners because everybody makes them, and no one is sitting in judgment. If there’s a chance of learning from someone else’s mistakes, that’s a bonus.   

More importantly, some garden weeds posses extraordinary health benefits. Make sure you know what they are and don’t kill these off!

source by: http://www.naturallivingideas.com/15-common-gardening-mistakes-everyone-makes/

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12 Healing Herbs You Need To Grow In Your Medicinal Garden

Medicinal plants grown in your own gardens can reduce your dependence on drugs, if not completely eliminate them. But growing random herbs with medicinal properties doesn’t help.

It is a common myth that all herbal preparations are safe by virtue of being natural. This is far from true. A typical example is foxglove or Digitalis purpurea. It has a positive effect on heart function, with the cardiac drug digitalin extracted from the plant. However, ingesting any part of the plant can induce nausea and vomiting, and can even lead to total collapse from digitalis intoxication and death.

Accessibility is another issue, as in the case of rosy periwinkle Catharanthus roseus/Vinca rosea from which anticancer drugs vinblastine and vincristine are obtained. You don’t benefit from growing this plant unless you are an experienced herbalist who can put it to good use. Otherwise, it will just remain a display specimen in your garden. You need to grow plants whose goodness you can access through simple preparations such as teas and infusions, poultices and powders.  

Some medicinal plants are to be used for treating specific ailments, while others have a generalized positive effect on our health when used regularly. Many herbs belonging to the latter group have found their way into our culinary scene as flavoring agents. Your medicinal garden should ideally have such plants that have practical uses for the common man besides being easy to grow.

Here’s a practical guide to a few of the accessible herbs that have stood the test of time:

1. Aloe vera

Aloe vera is well known as a skin-friendly plant. It is one medicinal plant people really make use of, since it is generally safe and requires no processing before use. It is a must-have in every garden whether you grow it in pots or in the ground.

Aloe vera plants grow well in a sunny location in warmer areas where there is not much danger of killer frosts. Being a succulent, this drought resistant plant requires very little care and thrives in poor soil. It suckers freely, so you can start with just one or two plants sourced from a reliable supplier. There are several aloes around; not all of them are edible or have the medicinal properties attributed to Aloe vera.

The jelly-like, colorless pulp of mature leaves can be applied to minor cuts and burns and to dry, inflamed, or damaged skin due to eczema or other skin conditions. It is an excellent moisturizer with anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial effect. The leaf pulp can be eaten too. Regular use can prevent constipation and relieve other digestive problems, including ulcerative colitis and irritable bowel syndrome.

2. Peppermint (Mentha × piperita)

This natural hybrid of spearmint and watermint is widely use in dental hygiene products, mouth fresheners, soothing balms and candies. Quite possibly the oldest medicinal herb to be used by man, there’s evidence that peppermint has been used for thousands of years. Grow it in a part of the garden where the plants are assured of water and give it plenty of room to spread.

Sip a tea made of a handful of peppermint leaves to calm stomach upsets and relieve pain and discomfort due to gas. Carry a few sprigs of peppermint when you travel.  Sniffing on it every now and then will prevent nausea and vomiting associated with motion sickness.

The active ingredient menthol found in abundance in peppermint, as well as in many other aromatic members of the mint family, has a cooling effect on the skin. Make a poultice of the leaves and apply it on the skin to relieve itching and burning resulting from skin allergies and inflammatory conditions. It has mild analgesic action, and relieves headaches and muscle cramps.

3. Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)

This perennial herb with tiny, aromatic leaves is a great addition to any medicinal herb collection. Thyme is easy to grow in a sunny location and thrives between rocks and boulders, braving summer heat and winter freezes. The characteristic scent of thyme comes from the volatile oil containing thymol, which gets released at the slightest touch. Many herbs contain this powerful antiseptic phenolic compound, but thyme oil has more than 50% thymol content.

Use an infusion of thyme as a gargle to get rid of bad breath and mouth sores. It can help with tonsillitis and laryngitis. Crushed fresh thyme applied on the neck is said to reduce throat infections. Inhaling the vapors reduces nervous exhaustion.

The most important use of thyme is to treat respiratory tract infections. Thyme extract is taken orally to relieve bronchitis, chest congestion, asthma, and whooping cough. A teaspoonful of thyme extract mixed with equal amount of honey can be given in divided doses to young children.

4. Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)

Rosemary is more of a woody shrub, but it deserves a place in every herb garden for its medicinal and culinary uses. Although it doesn’t look anything like other mint plants, it belongs to the same plant family. From the suffix officinalis, it is clear that rosemary has been counted as a medicinal plant from long ago, but in our medicinal garden, it is to be used for general health and wellbeing, rather than for specific problems.

Long known as the herb of remembrance, the claim that rosemary enhances memory has had a boost from recent research findings. The carnosic acid in the herb has been shown to prevent brain damage and neurodegeneration of the hippocampus induced by beta-amyloid peptides. These peptides are implicated in Alzheimer’s disease. In separate studies Rosemary oil has been found to improve cognitive function and reduce brain aging. Its potential in cancer treatment also has been promising.

Grow Rosemary in a pot or plant several in a line to form an aromatic hedge in the garden. Use the leaves regularly in cooking and herbal teas to derive maximum benefit.

5. Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile)

No medicine chest is complete without chamomile flower heads. They can be made into a soothing tea that can calm a troubled mind as well as a colicky baby. Its widespread use across many cultures and for many ailments is proof enough for its safety and effectiveness.

There’s more than one type of chamomile, but the one we want is the Roman chamomile Chamaemelum nobile. This hairy plant has finely divided leaves and white daisy-like flowers with bright yellow centers, but that description doesn’t help much in telling it apart from German chamomile. That’s why scientific names are important for identifying medicinal plants.

When you grow chamomile, you can make a tea from fresh flower heads or dry them for later use. Take a handful of flowers in a bowl and pour boiling hot water over them. Allow to steep for 15-20 minutes and drain. Have a cup of this soothing brew when you feel anxious or unsettled, or before bedtime in case you have difficulty falling asleep.

A tablespoonful or two should calm babies and young children having colicky pain or stomach upsets. Use it as gargle to relieve mouth ulcers. Bathe the skin affected with eczema several times a day with cooled chamomile tea.

6. Pot Marigold (Calendula officinalis)

Pot marigold with its yellow and orange flowers is a delightful addition to any garden. Not very finicky about soil fertility or pH, it can be grown easily from seeds and can be treated as an annual or perennial depending on your growing zone.

The edible flowers can be used to treat almost any problem related to skin. Use a poultice of the petals to relieve sunburn and to clear up acne and blemishes on the skin. Use it as an antiseptic on cuts and bruises. It stops bleeding and reduces inflammation when applied on nicks and cuts. Many skin ointments contain pot marigold extract as the active ingredient.

A tea made of the flowers is taken to get relief from varicose veins and to ease digestive problems.

7. Sage (Salvia officinalis)

Plants of the aalvia family have a long history of being used medicinally, as is evident from their family name. Salvia officinalis is the common sage that has slightly thick and elongated grey green leaves used in cooking, and for good reason. It can improve appetite and prevent flatulence.

This plant has a hormone regulatory effect on women. A tea of the leaves can relieve dysmenorrhea and symptoms associated with premenstrual syndrome and menopause.  Inhaling an infusion of sage gives relief to respiratory problems, including asthma. It reduces excessive sweating and salivation too. Sage is neuroprotective, and is used to treat Alzheimer’s, dementia, and depression.

8. Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

This herb is worth growing for the delightful fragrance of its tiny flowers alone, but it can be used therapeutically as a pick-me-up. Inhaling the fragrance of the flowers is sufficient to get relief from headache and depression. The essential oil extracted from the flowers has an important place in aromatherapy.

Add a handful of lavender flowers to the bathwater or place pouches of dried flowers under the pillow to get relaxed sleep. Make the best of the antiseptic and antibacterial properties of lavender by infusing the flowers in water and using it to wash face and damaged skin. It can clear acne and accelerate wound healing.

9. Echinacea (E. purpurea / E. angustifolia)

The purple coneflower Echinacea is a stalwart in the native North American herbal medicine. It has an immunostimulatory action that enables the body to fight bacterial and viral infections. Commercial Echinacea products are in great demand during the flu season. Regular users swear by their efficacy as vehemently as conventional medical practitioners try to discredit them.

Native Americans used the roots to treat wounds, insect bites, burns, and even snake bites. Now flower buds are more commonly used as a cold and flu remedy. Of the many different purple coneflowers native to North America, E. purpurea and E. angustifolia are the two most favored species. You can grow either of them in a sunny location in your garden. These biennial plants flower only in the second season.

Use fresh flower buds to make an infusion to prevent and treat cold and flu. A tincture made with alcohol is considered more potent. It involves steeping the flower buds or roots, or both, in pure, concentrated alcohol for 4-6 weeks, and then filtering out the liquid.

10. Comfrey (Symphytum officinale)

This is another vigorously growing herbaceous plant that has a weed status today in most places. However, the roots and leaves of comfrey are traditionally used to treat ligament injuries and broken bones, earning it common names like boneset and knit bone. Other uses of the leaf and root poultice include relief from arthritic pain and varicose vein ulcers.

Although comfrey extract has a history of being used internally to treat excess menstrual flow, gastrointestinal problems and stomach ulcers, only topical application is recommended today. The allantoin in the plant can aid tissue repair and regeneration. Gargling with an infusion of comfrey leaves helps relieve sore throat and gum disease.

11. Broadleaf plantain (Plantago major)

This plant is considered a weed, but it has several medicinal properties including antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and wound-healing ability. The fresh leaves are mashed and applied as a poultice to wounds, insect bites and skin sores for pain relief and to promote healing. The allantoin in the plant is a cell growth promoter. Another bioactive compound aucubin is a mild antibiotic, and the high mucilage content soothes the injured skin and relieves pain.

A tea brewed from fresh leaves is astringent, and helps control diarrhea. The leaves are eaten by people suffering from gout since aucubin increases uric acid excretion by the kidneys.

12. Great Mullein (Verbascum thapsus)

This tall plant growing up to 2 feet high stands out anywhere it grows. But if you offer it a place in your medicinal garden, you can harvest the leaves and the flowers. They have been used for over 2,000 years to treat respiratory tract problems.

Mullein tea made with leaves or flowers is an excellent expectorant. It is used to relieve cough associated with bronchitis and consumption. The mucilage in the plant helps loosen the phlegm and the saponins help flush them out. When the infection has affected the lungs, mullein leaves are rolled up and smoked to relieve chest congestion.

The roots are used to treat skin infections, including warts and athlete’s foot. Powder the dried roots and apply it on the affected area several times a day. Mullein flower tea is also effective in treating warts.

Note: All herbs should be used with caution because they contain powerful bioactive compounds. Start with small quantities initially to test your tolerance. Watch out for allergic reactions. People who have ragweed allergy may have similar reactions to medicinal plants belonging to that family.

When you feel good with a recommended amount of a given herb, it doesn’t necessarily mean that you will feel better with larger quantities or a stronger brew. To derive maximum benefit out of the herbs you grow, try to learn as much about them as you can. Rosemary Gladstar’s Medicinal Herbs Book is a great place to start. 

source by : http://www.naturallivingideas.com/medicinal-herb-garden/

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9 Clever Ways To Use Essential Oils In The Garden

Whether your intent is to repel pests, invite pollinators, or to turn your garden into a relaxing get-away, essential oils can help!  Check out these 9 clever ways to use essential oils in the garden.

1. Repel Insect Pests

There are a wide variety of essential oils which – with consistent use – can be used to repel unwanted insect pests from your garden.

Rosemary oil is a potent repellent for many types of pesky insects including flies, fleas and mosquitoes.  Rosemary is also great for deterring insect larvae like the cabbage looper caterpillar whose voracious appetite for juicy vegetable foliage can easily destroy entire crops of Brassicas, tomatoes, cucumbers, melons, and even some root veggies if left undisturbed.  Peppermint oil is an excellent natural insecticide which works on aphids, squash bugs, white flies, ants, beetles, and fleas, just to name a few.  Peppermint is also the best essential oil for repelling spiders.  Thyme oil works against biting insects like chiggers, ticks, and roaches.  Clove oil is another great deterrent for many flying insects.

To create a broad-spectrum all-natural insect repellent, mix equal parts of rosemary, peppermint, thyme, and clove oils (about 10 drops of each) in a spray bottle filled with water.  Remember to shake well before each use.  Apply anywhere you want to get rid of skittering, creeping, crawling, or flying pests.

For particularly bad infestations, try using Neem oil.  This natural insecticide dissolves the waxy coating of many hard-to-kill garden parasites, dehydrating, and eventually killing them.  Neem oil not only works on adult insects.  It also kills larvae and eggs, making Neem oil a super-effective all-natural method for reducing populations of insect pests.

2. Suppress Fungus

The cause of around 85% of all plant diseases, garden fungus can quickly become a big problem if left untreated.  Parasitic fungi cause damage by poisoning or killing cells, blocking stomata (breathing pores), and stealing nutrients from the plant.  If you’re seeing signs of disease in your garden, chances are pretty good that there is a fungus to blame.  Try some of these essential oils to stop fungal pests from spreading:

Tea Tree oil is one of the few natural remedies with the power to not just prevent fungal growth, but also to kill many species of fungus.  To treat existing fungal growth or as a preventative, mix about one tablespoon of tea tree oil per cup of water in a spray bottle.  Apply directly to infected plants once or twice per week.  Remember to avoid spraying leaves when the weather is very hot and dry as sun-heated tea tree oil can easily burn leaves.

For more information regarding the use of tea tree oil to control garden fungus, read Tea Tree Oil Fungicide for Plants on SFGate.

Previously mentioned Neem Oil is as effective against fungal infections on plants as it is for treating insect infestations.

Two organic compounds in Citronella oil – citronellal and linalool – have been proven to inhibit the growth of many species of fungus.  Other essential oils with powerful fungicidal properties include Rosemary, Oregano, Thyme, Peppermint, Clove, and Cinnamon oils.  Also effective against garden fungus are oils extracted from plants in the Allium family (Onion, Garlic, etc.)

To create an anti-fungal garden spray using any of these ingredients, add 8 – 10 drops of essential oil into a large glass spray bottle filled with water.  Remember to shake before each use.

3. Stop Slugs and Snails

Cedarwood, Hyssop, and Pine are the best essential oils for keeping gastropods off of your plants.  Mix about a teaspoon of your chosen oil(s) in a spray bottle filled with water.  Apply diluted oil in a ring around plants where slugs and snails like to visit.  Refresh as needed.

4. Discourage Vermin

Mice and other rodents are repulsed by the clean, fresh scent of peppermint.  Douse cotton balls with 1 – 2 drops of Peppermint oil a piece then tuck them into the entrances of mouse holes, squirrel nests, and other rodent burrows to persuade rodent residents to relocate.  Replace as needed.

5. Dissuade Pets

Did you know that cats hate the smell of Rosemary?  If you can’t seem to keep the neighborhood tomcat from leaving his delightful presents amidst your herbs and veggies, try spraying your mulch with Rosemary oil diluted in water. Alternately, you can add a few drops of Rosemary oil to a wide, shallow container partially filled with water. Whisk vigorously to break up oil droplets then drop in strips of cloth or pieces of string.  Allow them to soak long enough to absorb all of the oil.  Tie strings between plants or around the garden perimeter.  Hang cloth strips between garden rows, around plants, or anywhere you know the cat likes to dig.  Refresh as needed.

Black Pepper (or any other pepper, for that matter) essential oil can also be used to deter larger mammals from your garden.  Dogs, in particular, with their sensitive noses will be turned away from the strong odor of pepper oil.  Apply using the same string / cloth method as with Rosemary oil (above).  Just keep in mind that over-use of this essential oil may make your garden less pleasant for humans as well.

6. Treat Bites & Stings

Bites and stings from bees, wasps, ants, and other insects are always a possibility, even for the most careful gardener.  Mix 2 drops of Lavender oil, 2 drops of  Chamomile, and 1 drop of Basil essential oil with one teaspoon of Organic Apple Cider Vinegar.  Apply this remedy to fresh bites and stings with a cotton ball or pad.

Alternately, you can mix the same oils, but substitute Jojoba oil for the ACV.  Cleanse bites and stings with a cotton ball soaked in ACV, dab dry, then applying the soothing oil blend.

7. Attract Pollinators

Essential oils aren’t just for repelling unwanted creatures from your garden.  You can also use certain fragrant oils to attract natural pollinators to your garden.  The scent of Neroli (orange blossom) is an irresistible attractant for bees, as are the essential oils of many small-blossomed flowers such as Lavender, Hyssop, Marjoram, Helichrysum, Basil, Sage, and Rosemary.  Also, try Lavender, Yarrow, Catmint, Fennel, Helichrysum, and Sage essential oils to attract more butterflies to your garden.

8. Enhance the Mood

Perhaps you have a private little nook – a sanctuary filled with growing things where you go to relax after a long and stressful day.  Why not add an essential oil burner and fill it with aromatherapy oils to enhance the calming effects of your secret garden?  Check out these tips for mixing essential oils.

For the best selection of therapeutic-grade aromatherapy essential oils on the internet, we recommend Mountain Rose Herbs!

9. Make Your Own Mosquito Repellent

Probably the most well-known essential oil for repelling mosquitoes and other biting insects is Citronella.  However, if you aren’t a big fan of the scent of this pungent herb, there are plenty of alternatives which can be used to keep these annoying blood-suckers away from your skin.  Either way, just follow these simple instructions to create your own natural mosquito repellent.

Before you begin, you’ll need a small glass spray bottle filled with about 2 ounces of water and 1 ounce of organic witch hazel.  You can also add about 10 drops of jojoba oil which is a natural insect repellent and great skin conditioner.  Once you’ve done this, it’s time to pick out your essential oils.

The “Heavy Hitters” – (Choose one or two.)

Because these oils are very strong, they should be used in smaller amounts than the other ingredients in your mosquito repellent.  Choose one or two from the following six essential oils and add 2 – 4 drops total to the mixture.

Citronella, Lemongrass, Cajeput, Eucalyptus – all great natural insect repellents

Peppermint – also works against ants, flies, lice, and spiders.

Garlic oil – personally tested and confirmed to be very effective.  (Even tiny six-legged vampires hate garlic!)

The “Distance Runners” – (Choose at least one.)

These essential oils have lower levels of volatile organic compounds so they tend to have richer, longer-lasting aromas than the ingredients from the first category.  Keep in mind that this will be the main ingredient – and thus the main scent – in your natural mosquito repellent.  Choose your favorite (or favorites, if you want to use more than one) from the following five oils and add 10 – 15 total drops to the mix.

Clove, Lavender, Tea Tree – all effective natural insect repellents

Pine oil – also works well against fleas and ticks.

Rosemary – keeps flies away in addition to mosquitoes.

The “Harmonizers” – (Choose one, maybe two.)

These oils help to balance out your blend and stabilize the more volatile, strong-smelling ingredients.  Choose one (maybe two) essential oils from the following three oils and add 3 – 6 drops total to top off your homemade mosquito repellent.

Cedarwood – natural insecticide with a fresh piney fragrance.

Sandalwood – somewhat weak protection against mosquitoes, but has an incredible warm and woody aroma.

Patchouli – deters bed bugs, ants, fleas, and lice in addition to mosquitoes.  Very strong, smoky and musky scent.

Always remember to shake well before spraying your all-natural homemade mosquito repellent!

Essential oils have a huge number of uses for health, beauty and around the home, and with the advice of this article, you now know how you can use essential oils in the garden.

Need any of the essential oils mentioned in this article? The best place to buy them is from this page on Mountain Rose Herbs.

source by: http://www.naturallivingideas.com/9-clever-ways-use-essential-oils-garden/

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How to Plant a Perennial Food Garden – 20 Fruits & Veggies That Will Keep Coming Back Year After Year

Growing vegetables and fruits in the home garden is rewarding, but many people are put off by the backbreaking work involved at the start of the growing season. Perennial edibles are the answer to this problem.

Grow them among your regular veggies so that you will have something to look forward to even if you miss your spring or fall planting.  Once planted and established, they require very little work except topdressing and occasional weeding and pruning.

Perennial plantings need a bit of planning though. Remember the following when you add them to your edible landscape:

1. Select the varieties that are guaranteed to do well in your USDA zone and the microclimate in your garden.

2. Plant them interspersed with your annuals so that your garden is uniformly filled out throughout the year.

3. Prepare the planting spot very well since you will be letting them grow there undisturbed for many years.

4. Leave plenty of space between perennials as they will multiply faster than you think.

5. Plant only a few at a time so that you have better control over them if they turn out to be invasive or fall short of expectations.

Here’s a selection of edibles that will reward you with repeated harvest for several years to come.

Asparagus

Asparagus is one true perennial vegetable that will reliably come year after year. Although it is a seasonal vegetable when grown outside in the garden, the expanding mound can be harvested for over 20 years. The culinary type Asparagus officinalis can be grown from seeds, but you’ll have to wait 2-3 years to get spears worth the table. It is better to buy 1-year old crowns of hybrid varieties or get divisions from someone having clumps of male plants.

Asparagus is a cool-loving plant hardy to USDA zone 4. There are a few cultivars such as UC 157 and Jersey Knight that can be grown in warmer areas. Grow this prized vegetable in well drained slightly alkaline next to where tomatoes are planted since they are mutually beneficial companions.

Artichoke

Globe Artichoke Cynara cardunculus is a Mediterranean native thriving in warm climates. If you live in USDA 7 and above, you can grow this thistle relative as an annual and harvest the edible flower buds from spring to mid fall. When grown from seeds, the flower buds are produced in the second year and for 3-4 years afterwards. Alternatively, root cuttings from established plants or ready–to-plant starts you can get from garden centers can be used as planting material.

Allow plenty of room in a sunny location for the plant to grow and spread. Regular watering and feeding, especially with a potash fertilizer at the time of bud formation will ensure large flower buds. Divide the clumps every 3-4 years to promote vigorous growth.

Jerusalem artichoke

This American native Helianthus tuberosus has a misleading common name. It has nothing to do with Jerusalem and is only distantly related to globe artichoke, although the edible tubers have a similar taste. Also known by more suitable names such as sun artichoke and sunchoke, this plant closely related to garden sunflower were widely used by Native Americans.

The tubers are starch-free and rich in the dietary fiber inulin known for its cholesterol lowering and chemo-protective ability. Inulin is great for gastrointestinal health as it aids the growth of beneficial bacteria in the guts. This sun loving plant is easy to grow almost anywhere and produce large quantities of tubers every year, so plant only a few.

Tree onions

Tree onions (Allium cepa var. proliferum) are a variety of regular onions that develop a bunch of bulbs on the flower stalks. When these topsets grow bigger, the stalks bend until they touch the ground, starting new plants a little away from the parent plant. This has earned them the common name ‘walking onion.’  These easy-to-grow and easy-to-harvest onions are great asset to any edible garden. Not only the top sets, but the leaves and the underground bulbs can be eaten, but the latter is tougher and more pungent than regular onions.

To plant these onions you can either divide a clump or use the topsets. Plant them any time of the year, even in winter if the ground doesn’t freeze. They are now considered a hybrid of regular onion with perennial Welsh onion.

Watercress

If you have some water in your garden, watercress Nasturtium officinale is a great perennial to have. Grow it from seeds or start with a single clump, and you will soon end up having plenty for your use and for giving away.

When you buy watercress, you get whole clumps with or without roots, but in your garden you will be harvesting only a few leaves from each clump.  They will grow back quickly, ensuring a continuous supply. The crisp, peppery leaves are great in salads. You can cook them too, but it mellows the taste.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) is one of the first perennials to come up in spring. This is a plant for cooler regions since it cannot withstand heat above 90F. Well-drained soil amended with rich manure is ideal for growing this vegetable. Sections of rhubarb roots should be planted in early spring and the soil kept moist. Since the clumps can grow 3-4 feet across, sufficient spacing is essential.

The leaves can be harvested from second year onwards and for the next 2-3 years, but may need to be divided after that. These plants are quite tough and take some amount of neglect, but they respond well to good care.

Daylilies

Daylilies (Hemerocallis) are treated as perennials in the flower garden. Although most gardeners know that these flowers are edible, they are rarely used as vegetables like the Chinese do. Not only the flowers and flower buds, but the thick roots that look like fingerling potatoes and the white, tender base of the stalk are edible.

Spare the prized varieties, but leave the common ones like Hemerocallis fulva for culinary use. Stir fry or batter fry the flower buds; boil the larger roots and eat the lighter ones raw; add the chopped stems to soups. Try in small amounts first to make sure that you are not allergic.

Ostrich Fern

The tender fronds of many ferns known as fiddleheads are eaten when they are tightly coiled, but they are often gathered from the wild, depleting the wild stock and occasionally gathering toxic ones by mistake. Growing your own solves these problems.

North American species Matteuccia struthiopteris, commonly known as ostrich fern, is worth growing in damp spots in your garden. It does especially well in USDA zone 3 to 7 and will supply you with fiddleheads every spring if you take care to harvest less than half the fronds that come up. Buy one or two plants from a reliable supplier rather than trying to grow them from spores.   

Scarlet runner bean

This legume Phaseolus coccineus is often grown as an ornamental for its bright red flowers, but the edible beans are excellent as a vegetable. They can be cooked as snap beans when tender, and shelled when they are plump with seeds. The dry pods can be harvested for dry beans. Add the edible flowers to salads and stir fries for color.    

Once started from seeds, scarlet runner bean plants can grow as perennials in warmer areas, and can be overwintered in colder areas by cutting off the top growth and mulching. In spring, new stems will emerge from the underground parts.

Potato bean

This is a neglected perennial legume despite having the potential to become a survival crop. Although native to North America, potato bean Apios americana is now mainly grown in Japan. However, it grows wild in moist areas across USDA zones 4 to 9.

The potato bean vine produces strings of small tubers underground and bean-like pods above the ground. It is also known as American groundnut after its tubers. The beans and the tubers are both edible and nutritious, and have high protein content. The plants can be started from both seeds and tubers. It spreads by tubers and keeps coming back more vigorously every year, so find out if the plant is invasive in your area before planting it in the ground.

Fennel

Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) is a spice, and an herb, and a vegetable, all combined. This aromatic Mediterranean plant is naturalized across the world and is grown for different purposes in different places. Fennel seeds are sweet and spicy with a flavor similar to anise seeds

They are used in curries and breads. The feathery leaves look like dill, and can be used as an herb to flavor dishes. The leaf stalks can be cut off every now and then and used like celery. Finally, the bulbous leaf bases are used as a vegetable, either raw or sautéed or stir fried.

Fennel grown in poor soil has better flavor. You can grow it from seeds as a perennial in USDA zones 5-10, but it is treated as an annual in colder areas.

Sweet potato

Sweet potatos are usually grown as annuals in cooler climates, but the vine can live as a perennial in the same spot for years in warmer areas. Rooting from nodes, the plant can spread very fast and fill large areas until actively contained. Not only the tubers, but the leaves are also edible. The tender shoots with 2-4 leaves can be cooked like spinach.

Grow sweet potatoes from rooted cuttings you get from garden centers, or make your own planting material by allowing the tubers to sprout and put out many runners.  Although sweet potato vine can grow in poor soil, it gives plentiful harvest if the soil is loose and fertile.  

Dandelion

Dandelions are obviously perennial since they come up in the same spot in the lawn despite your best efforts to get rid of them. That makes them good candidates for a perennial edible landscape. The young leaves can be eaten raw in salads and the older ones cooked as a vegetable. The root as well as the flowers can be used for making dandelion tea which has anti-inflammatory and diuretic properties.

Since dandelions grow in almost all USDA zones as a weed, sourcing planting material is not difficult. Grow them from seeds or dig up plants from places you don’t want them to grow. To prevent new dandelion plants from sprouting all over the garden, harvest all flowers before they get a chance to set seeds.

Sorrel

The common garden sorrel Rumex acetosa is a leafy vegetable with a lemony zing that deserves a place in every edible landscape in USDA zones 4 to 9. This cold hardy perennial can withstand a few frosts, but eventually dies down, only to resurrect early in the spring in a rosette of tender green leaves. They can be eaten raw in salads and sandwiches. Sorrel soup is another delicacy.

Plant seedlings in spring and start enjoying the leaves once the plants are well established. Sorrel patches spread rather quickly, so start with only a few. Cut off the stalks when the plant bolts to prevent seedlings coming up all over the garden.  

Strawberries

A strawberry patch in the garden can give you plentiful harvest for several years if you just keep the plants mulched and prevent overcrowding. You can choose seasonal varieties for heavy yield or everbearing ones for staggered production.

Strawberry plants love sunny areas with rich, slightly acidic soil. If you don’t have sunny spots in your garden, you can grow woodland strawberry (Fragaria vesca) which does well in partial shade.

Gooseberry

These spiny plants that grow delicate looking, translucent berries are a must-have for any edible garden in the temperate world. They are cold hardy to USDA zone 3, but don’t do very well in high summer temperatures. Plant rooted cuttings 6-feet apart to provide adequate space for their arching canes.

Gooseberry bushes love rich, well-drained soil. Regular watering and feeding with potassium fertilizers and top dressing with dolomite limestone give good results. Regular pruning keeps the bushes healthy and neat, besides producing bigger berries. American gooseberry Ribes hirtellum has better yield, but gives smaller fruits while the European variety Ribes grossularia has larger, flavorful berries.

Currants

Coming in black (Ribes nigrum) and red (Ribes rubrum) varieties and the albino version of red, currants are easy-to-grow perennial fruit for edible gardens. These cold hardy plants do very well in sunny locations in cooler areas and in partial shade in warmer places and reliably produce fruit every year from the second year of planting. They are generally grown from cuttings, and prefer moist, slightly acidic soil.

Once the plants are established, all you have to do is prune them every year to keep the bushes under control and to promote new growth. The tart and sweet fruit can be used in a variety of dishes and made into jams and jellies.

Jostaberry

Also called Buffalo currant, Jostaberry (Ribes aureum) is a mix of gooseberry and black currants. It combines the best of both parents and gives you sweeter berries on spineless canes. What’s more: it is resistant to the diseases affecting the parent species.  

When grown in rich, moist soil from rooted cuttings, the plants grow vigorously and start producing fruit in 2-3 years. You need quite a bit of space to accommodate these large bushes, but they are self fertile, so a single bush is enough. The berries can be used the same way you use blackcurrants.  

Raspberries

You have a wide choice when it comes to raspberries since both summer bearers and everbearing varieties that continue to produce fruit from spring to fall are available. Then there are purple raspberries, red raspberries, and their albino versions, known as golden raspberries, to choose from. You can find different cultivars that do well in USDA zones 3 to 10.

Plant rooted cuttings of the variety of your choice in spring. You can have several types depending on space and zone limitations, but plant them at least 6-8 feet apart. Each plant will put up an increasing number of long canes every year. Rich soil and regular feeding give great results. 

Blueberry

This North American native deserves to be part of every edible garden. Once established, a blueberry plant can provide berries for several decades, but many cultivars are self-sterile and require more than one plant to ensure fruit production. You can choose between lowbush Vaccinium angustifolium and highbush Vaccinium corymbosum and its hybrid varieties.

Blueberry bushes are acid-loving; they grow best in soils with pH 5. It should be evenly moist and well drained. Occasional pruning keeps the bushes healthy. For warmer climates (USDA zone 7-10), the tall growing Rabbiteye blueberry (Vaccinium ashei ) may be ideal.

source by: http://www.naturallivingideas.com/perennial-food-garden/

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11 Plants That Repel Mosquitoes

The days are finally getting longer, the snow is (slowly!) beginning to melt, and spring officially arrives in just a few days! While the prospect of warmer weather has us all a bit giddy, we can’t forget the unwelcome intruders that tag along with the sunny summer weather.

Yes, we are talking about mosquitoes, and everybody knows that they can be a huge nuisance. However, using chemical products to keep them away is not on the top of everyone’s wish list.

Read on for some ideas of plants that repel mosquitoes – naturally!

Citronella

Chances are, you’ve heard of this one before- it’s one of the most common ingredients in most mosquito repellents. Strange enough though, many people don’t even know that citronella is actually a plant! Citronella is a beautiful perennial clumping grass that emits a strong aroma. That aroma masks other scents, and keeps mosquitoes from being attracted to things located around it. The citronella plant has a much stronger aroma than other mosquito repellents that contain citronella, so it is a great choice. Citronella is very easy to grow, and can get to be a very tall 5 or 6 feet high! You can grow citronella in pots and place it around a porch or patio, or you can plant it directly in a yard or garden bed. It’s a great choice for repelling mosquitoes naturally.

You can actually buy two large live citronella plants from this page on Amazon. There’ll be no need to wait for seeds to grow – you can start repelling mosquitoes immediately.

Lemon Balm

Another great choice for a mosquito repelling plant is lemon balm. A member of the mint family, the plant also known as horsemint and beebalm is a very easy plant for beginning gardeners to grow- even if you don’t have a green thumb! Lemon Balm is a very hardy plant, it resists drought, and it grows well even in shade. It is a very fast growing and sometimes aggressive plant, so you might want to contain it to a pot, where you can move it to wherever you like to ensure that it doesn’t take over your garden! An added bonus? You can dry the leaves and use them to make a delicious herbal tea!

Catnip

Your feline friends will be happy to know that catnip is a great mosquito deterrent! In fact, in a 2010 study, researchers found that catnip is 10 times more effective than DEET, the ingredient commonly found in bug repellents. It is a very easy plant to grow, and if you have cats in the house, they will surely be happy to have it around. However, be careful not to plant catnip in with other flowers, veggies, or herbs if you have cats around your garden. They will surely roll around in the catnip and smash everything nearby!

Marigolds

A bright, hardy annual plant, marigolds are a great choice for repelling mosquitoes. Marigolds contain Pyrethrum, an ingredient found in many insect repellents, and they have a unique aroma which bugs find repulsive. The flowers themselves are beautiful and can make a great border or addition to any flower bed! Try placing them around borders of your home, and mosquitoes might not want to cross over!

Basil

Calling all cooks! Want a double whammy when it comes to mosquito protection? Plant some basil! Not only will you have a quick and easy mosquito repellent, you will also have a delicious fresh herb on hand to add to all of your favorite recipes! There are many different varieties of basil around, so feel free to experiment and find the ones that you like best. Many expert gardeners recommend trying lemon basil or cinnamon basil to deter insects.

Lavender

You probably know that lavender is a gorgeous purple flowering plant with a soothing, calming scent. But, did you know that it is also a natural mosquito repellent? Grow it indoors near a sunny window, or outside in your garden or flower bed to keep the bugs away. While you’re at it, make a delicious herbal tea, or use lavender to fill your home with a wonderful calming aroma.

Peppermint

Most bugs despise the smell and taste of peppermint, so planting it around your home is a great way to keep them from dropping by uninvited! Plus, if you do happen to get bitten, peppermint leaves rubbed directly onto the skin make a great itch relief treatment! Added bonus for the wonderful minty smell that makes a delicious addition to food and beverages!

Garlic

Unfortunately for all of us who love Italian food, studies have shown that EATING garlic does not repel mosquitoes. (Unless, however, you were to eat a HUGE amount!) However, having garlic around DOES! Make sure to add some garlic to your flower bed or vegetable garden for added protection!

Pennyroyal

The adorable pennyroyal flower is a natural deterrent for mosquitoes! Make sure to plant some around your flowerbeds! Pennyroyal plants also make great groundcovers, and they attract a plethora of beautiful butterflies. Some people even use pennyroyal to flavor certain fish dishes. As you can see, this plant has plenty of benefits!

Rosemary

Rosemary is a beautiful flowering plant that is often used to flavor lamb or fish dishes, but did you know that it is also a natural mosquito repellent? It’s perfect to add to your herb garden or flowerbed to keep bugs away, and it even attracts butterflies!

Plus you can simply snip a few springs off every time you need to add extra flavor to your lamb or steak!

Geranium

This beautiful flowering plant is a great choice for mosquito repellent. When planted in a hanging container, the colorful blooms will cascade over the side of the pot, providing a beautiful visual piece as well as a very useful bug repellent!

As you can see, there are many different plants out there that can help to keep bugs away! Next time you reach for the chemical bug spray, take a minute and think again, and choose something more natural!

source : http://www.naturallivingideas.com/11-plants-that-repel-mosquitoes/

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